Flying out of Cuzco, back to Lima.

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With the exception of my thighs and derriere, I am not what you would call a hearty girl (though those two parts of me could survive drought, famine, pestilence, and probably a nuclear war. Everything, really, save for another season of skinny jeans). But excluding my well-developed lower region, I’m kind of wimpy. My arms aren’t particularly strong, I have a small waist, I’m prone to migraines and colds, and I’m constantly suffering from motion sickness (just the sheer number of other illness-related posts I was able to link to in that last sentence should convince you of my alleged frailty).

Naturally, I was more than a little nervous about traveling to Cuzco. At an elevation of 11,000 feet, altitude sickness is almost a given. When we first arrived at the airport, there was a rather graphic poster warning visitors of this fact. It featured a larger-than-life image of a tourist vomiting on his own feet. Sadly, I did not take a photo, but here is my artistic rendering of it:

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I can't remember the warning they had in Spanish, so I just put "BEWARE THE TREES."

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I am pleased to say that no one in our party took it upon themselves to recreate the scene above. We did have to deal with a good measure of light-headedness and nausea, and here’s how we did it:

We gave ourselves plenty of time to acclimate to the altitude. We arrived into Cuzco on a sunny afternoon, and had that entire evening and the whole next day to get used to the elevation before we headed to Machu Picchu (which is at a far lower elevation). We took our time and didn’t rush things. When we first stepped off the plane, we felt okay – a bit short of breath, and a bit light-headed, but okay. After a little while, dizziness set in, along with racing heartbeats, and for a few of us, nausea followed. After three or four hours in Cuzco, Rand was feeling like this:

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My poor sick man.

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But after a solid night’s sleep he was feeling fine and eating cheese-filled empanadas he bought off some random dude in the village of Pisac:
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I love Tom's face in this pic. It just screams, "BEWARE THE TREES." Fortunately, Rand was fine.

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So when all else fails? Don’t hesitate to nap, or at least lie down.

For those of you who wish to stay conscious, one of the best ways to combat altitude sickness is coca tea (or mate de coca, as it is known in Peru). The stuff  is amazing. This is an odd thing for me to say, given that I’m so paranoid about narcotics that I no longer take Sudafed now that you need two forms of I.D. and a blood sample to buy it in my home state of Washington (better than Oregon, which requires you to have a prescription from a doctor and a copy of your original high school transcript, as well as letters from three of your neighbors stating that you are not, in fact, a meth addict, and that you just have a cold).
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I thought someone from the DEA was going to tackle me just for taking a sip.

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But coca leaves aren’t cooked up in some sketchy backwoods meth lab. They grow directly from the ground, and they’ve been consumed in Peru for ages to combat fatigue and altitude sickness. Nearly every hotel you go to will offer you a complimentary cup or three, and it’s on the menu at restaurants all over town. The taste is grassy and herbaceous, not unlike a green tea. I didn’t even notice any buzz from drinking several cups – it was literally milder than a glass of coca-cola, which I found amusing.

If you aren’t a tea drinker, there are also coca toffees, which I found delightful but a bit gritty (incidentally, this is exactly how I felt about Jack Palance). Though I now crave these candies fortnightly, I don’t really think that’s because they’re addictive – I think it’s because I just really like sweets. I’m pretty sure these are a big reason why I fared so darn well in Cuzco. Sick as though I usually am, I was fine.
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They were an incredibly dark brownish-green. Incidentally, after munching through two-packs, so was my pooh.

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(One word of warning: if you do partake in either the tea or the candy, you might fail a drug test in the weeks following. Yes, I’m serious.)

One thing we all noticed when we got to Cuzco, which may not have been directly related to the altitude, was that our stomachs were feeling a little off. As one person put it, “things were flowing a little more freely than usual.” Okay, fine – it was me. I said that. In reference to my BOWELS. It wasn’t severe – no one was really sick or in gastrointestinal pain or anything like that. We were just using the bathroom a lot and wondering exactly what to do with our toilet paper in the aftermath. The solution to that, as well as to altitude sickness in general? Chug plenty of water.

We found that having a full stomach also helped (if you are light-headed already, adding low-blood sugar to the mix is a bad idea). As usual, I choose to battle all feelings of nausea or illness with pastries. Our hotel definitely aided in this fight:

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Me, to Rand: "Send for my things back home. I am never leaving."

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If pastries aren’t your thing (they are certainly mine – VIVA THE BUTT!) then you can also try munching on these little dried corn snacks that are all over Peru. They tasted kind of like dry, bland Fritos (I’m totally not selling these, am I? I can’t believe I used to be a copywriter). I was the only one who really dug them. Rand thought they tasted like dust, but then again, so do Saltines, and look how well those work.

They're like rustic corn nuts.

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Oh, and one last thing to be wary of while hanging out in higher elevations: it takes far less to get drunk, or even tipsy. If you do choose to drink, know that your tolerance will be half to a quarter of what it usually is, and follow it up with plenty of water. Also, you might want to make sure that no one around you is sober and wielding a camera. Otherwise, this might happen:

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I love the look on the face of the woman in the background of this picture.

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Of course, that’s just the risk you take when you travel, particularly to places in high altitudes. On the plus side? The view usually makes it all worth it:

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So heed my advice. Stay hydrated, get plenty of rest, and have some hearty, carb-filled meals. And beware the trees, of course. 

 

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Comments (17)

  1. 1
    Alex says:

    Nice MS Paint skills there. Better than any graphics I’ve ever seen! :)

    Regarding the pooh colour, maybe a bit too much information?

  2. 2
    Rand says:

    LOVE this post. You artistry in MS Paint is unrivaled. I’m thinking that pic might actually become a Reddit meme.

  3. 3

    >>Though I now crave these candies fortnightly, I don’t really think that’s because they’re addictive – I think it’s because I just really like sweets.

    You know what they say. Sugar: It’s the Gateway Drug!

  4. 4
    Casey says:

    Wow, if I knew what you were going to do with all those photos I would have never signed that wavier! I also have to say that your MS Paint skills are almost as impressive as your dance moves! I’m also surprised there was no mention of the other “sign” we saw in the airport…

  5. 5
    Stuart P Turner says:

    This post shall be my guide if I ever travel more than a few hundred feet above ground.

  6. 6
    Janine says:

    We learned that at higher altitudes your bladder shrinks. I have to pee so often on this trip it’s annoying.
    One of the woman on our trip has such altitude sickness she landed in the hospital. The rest of us have just had
    headaches. She is re-joining us today since Machu Picchu is lower, as you mentioned. I am off to fill my belly with cocoa tea and my backpack is full of those cocoa toffees ( we found the cocoa store, and despite two trips to the store, up that steep hill, they have been out of cocoa beer twice. :-( )

  7. 7
    Guy says:

    The trouble with coping with altitude sickness is everyone suffers in different ways, but here a few things I have noted over the years:

    -Women cope better than men (Women generally have more fat than men!)
    -Fat, unfit people cope better than gym bunnies (muscle need more oxygen than fat)
    -Appetite becomes suppressed (adding to the fatigue)
    -Hydration helps (don’t like iodine treated water? I used packet soups, this helps with getting some food inside you too!)
    -Acetazolamide, (Diamox) can help, but can mask symptoms too! (NB: I AM NOT A DOCTOR!)
    -Time is a great healer (take time to acclimatise)

    Part of my pre climbing ‘training’ was to eat cakes! My climbing buddies and I would often meet up in a coffee shop for a ‘training session’!

    As for toilet paper, if you can’t burn it, bin it and the ‘owner’ of the toilet will hopefully incinerate it…%)

  8. 8
    Penny says:

    1. Funniest thing in the post? “If you aren’t a tea drinker, there are also coca toffees, which I found delightful but a bit gritty (incidentally, this is exactly how I felt about Jack Palance)”

    2. Can’t lie. I think I love Tom.

  9. 9
    Monica says:

    Ugh…vomiting to me, is like moths to you. Emetophobia vs. Mottephobia! Haha… I probably wouldnt do too well in high altitude places…so you’re braver!

  10. 10
    Kali says:

    I couldn’t imagine having altitude sickness after flying on a plane because I get motion sickness from a plane so I’d have it double time. Thanks for the great ideas though wonder if they work for plane rides too…

  11. 11
    Marianne says:

    Jack Palance reference. Gold!

  12. 12

    Off to Peru shortly for 3 weeks tour. Have been worried about altitude sickness as l do get a bit of stomach upset when travelling so was pleased to read the remedies available. Also as l am rather ‘more woman than most women’ it gives me confidence that l might be OK . Thanks for informative and amusing ‘ notes.

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